which arduino board should i buy


We’Ll talk about all the different kinds of Arduino available, how much they are, what they’re capable of and which is suitable for your project. This is pretty much designed as a beginner’s guide for the sort of person who has just graduated from their starter kit or who hasn’t even bought an Arduino yet I’m, hoping to show you what kinds of Arduinos there are and what they’re best suited to. First up the uno with clones, costing as little as three dollars the uno, while not the first Arduino board, remains the most popular it’s. Also, the model you’ll find included with most starter kits it’s, the you know that sets the standard for upgrade shields boards, which can plug onto the top of Arduino to enhance functionality, add features, and they can often stack with each other. So you can add more and more of them about the size of a credit card. It has a full sized USB port and a DC barrel jack, accepting up to 12 volts DC. It has 14 digital io pins, five analog ones and runs off 5 volts. It can be powered either by the USB cable or by some external power through that barrel. Jack at the heart of the you know, is the atmega 328p, with 32 kilobits of program memory, which is pretty small by today’s standards and at some point you’ll probably want to upgrade to something bigger, but as a starter device is perfect. Really next up we have the mega 2 560 and this is basically an upgraded uno.

If you find yourself running out of Io, pins or memory, but you still want the form factor of the uno, then you can upgrade very easily to a mega. Shield’S can also fit on top of this in the same way that they do with the Arduino Uno. Although twice the price of the you know at about six dollars for a clone, the mega has 256 K of memory along with a whopping 53 digital io ports and 15 analog port. Like the you know, it has a sighs, USB port and DC for external power. So it’s really just useful when the uno just isn’t big enough. Next, we have a pro micro. This tiny, tiny little thing with clones available for about three dollars. Each the pro micro is both small and has the ability to become a USB human input device. Like a keyboard or mouse, it has a micro USB port on the side, it runs off five volts or 3.3 volts and, of course, it’s tiny, so it’s great for small projects, though this does leave you with a couple less IO pins to play with and like The uno, it only has 32 K of memory, there’s, also a pro mini and nano Arduino available, which is basically the same thing, but without the onboard USB controller I’m gon na skip right over these, because if you need them, you probably already know that and you’re Not really an Arduino beginner for beginners I’m definitely going to recommend the pro micro just because it has the built in USB controller and it can become a keyboard or Mouse and honestly there isn’t that much of a price difference so for beginners.

This is definitely the one I would recommend if you want the tiny form factor at this point. I also want to talk about a node MCU dev board, which is Arduino compatible amongst other things, so, while it isn’t actually an Arduino, you can use most of the Arduino code on it. Although you may need a couple of modifications available for as little as four dollars, each the node MCU board comes with a built in Wi Fi connection, which is incredibly powerful for Internet of Things. Projects that you might want to take on just a couple of lines of code and you have it connected to the Internet. The only downside to working with the node MCU board is that the pins run at 3.3, volts they’re, not 5, volt tolerant. So if you have a sensor which is outputting at 5, volts you’ll need to do some logic level, shifting to get the voltage down to 3 point 3 by the time you’ve graduated from your uno. In your starter kit, this probably won’t be a problem. Finally, we have the lilypad arduino, and this is a bit of a weird one – really it’s a 5 centimetres circular board and instead of pins or sockets, that you can push pins into it has pads, and these are designed to be sewn with conductive thread. So it’s really for wearable projects, the lily pad uses the same processor as the uno. So much of the code is portable, just upload it to this and it’ll work.

Fine, the only problem is the lily pad. Doesn’T come with a USB connection, so you need a separate FTDI breakout like this, which gives you a USB port, so you can plug in and program. If you buy the lily pad. 3 6 8 version you’ll find the pins are 5 volt, tolerant, so otherwise it’s exactly the same as working with an Arduino Uno. Lastly, I wanted to add a quick note about the new generation of non Atmel based boards. The Arduino unit, for instance, is a curious Linux, combined with Arduino, as well as Bluetooth and Wi Fi on the same board. These bear more resemblance to a Raspberry Pi, but with a whole lot less community support and a much bigger price tag. The Arduino unit is about 75. My advice just steer clear of these new boards, they’re simply overpriced for their intended Internet of Things. Applications you’d be much better off with a little node MCU dev board for 4 dollars or even consider a 35 Raspberry Pi. If you need that full Linux stack to play with so those are the board’s that, as a beginner, I think you’ll be most interested in or interested in upgrading to next after you’ve finished with your owner in most cases for simple prototyping, I still keep around a Bunch of simple who knows they get the job done, and they’re cheap and they’re easy to work with. If you need more space for code or more ports, then upgrade to a mega to 560.

If you’re ready to embed your project or if you want to make it really really small, then you can always consider a nano. But if you like, the small form factor and would also like to play around with something that can become a USB device, definitely consider the pro micro for wearables. The lilypad is a great option. You can sew straight onto it with conductive thread and finally for Internet of Things based projects. I really can’t recommend the node MCU enough, it’s so cheap to get something that will connect straight to Wi Fi in a couple of lines of code. So you can get something really cool working, really quickly, that’s it from me thank you for watching and for more weekly technology, tutorials reviews and giveaways from make use of com.


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    1. +Patrick R Throughly overpriced and unsupported. Avoid. Buy a NodeMCU / esp8266 for IoT projects – less than $5 for similar features.

  1. So I’m a total beginner and heard about Arduino. I want to buy one to be able to modify a 5metre led stripe with bluetooth. So I’ll probably get an Uno and an HC-06 or HC-05 bluetooth adapter. Did I make the right choice?

    1. +hellschatt I’ve actually never played with Bluetooth stuff, the protocol is just completely unreliable. But yes, that’ll work. You’ll also need some logic level MOSFETs to output to the LED strip – you can’t power it directly from an Arduino (and a suitable power supply).

    1. Never buy the Due, or any of the other nonsense boards they made after the Uno. You’ll find incompatibilities with every project and library out there. If you want something with built-in Wifi, use a NodeMCU board, which is Arduino compatible and a fraction of the price of the newer official boards.

    2. thanks! was thinking about due because it have more in and output slots, and because more space for more code, and a lot faster cpu.. good to know the library issue, thanks for the head up!

  2. i’ve got an uno like yours but … it’s just so glitchy . it reads inputs by it self . it take outputs by its own … ! whats the problem ?

    1. I’m not sure what you mean – Arduino doesn’t do anything by itself. The only way it would read analog inputs is if you told it to. And if you told it to read analog without having something attached, you’d get a random reading. So if you mean you’ve got something attached and the input is not as expected, then there’s either a problem with your wiring or the code.

    2. 1. i programmed it so when for example pin 8 reads input , then pin 13 must be powered … but i didn’t even attached wires to pin 8 … it automatically powered on pin 13 ! it reads input by it own ..

      2. i attached 2 LED to pin 13 and 12 and i programmed it pin 12 is on . automatically it powered on pin 13 and then blinked and then powered on pin 12 and then blinked and then pin 13 stayed on while pin 12 in blinking !

      what is wrong with my arduino uno developer board ?

  3. Can a Arduino be used to built a circuit for water drop photography controlling a solenoid, flash and camera shutter?

    1. @MakeUseOf Why not? Somebody needs to sponsor the good tutorials, development etc…. We can’t buy all clones.

    1. I know what you mean about being a beginner. I watch many videos and read the comments. People who don’t even know the first thing about electronics are trying to assemble etc projects that need some expertise…e.g. colour code of resistors or making simple changes to code. Sometimes they can plug things up and get them going…good luck to them and it gives them a lot of enjoyment seeing things work but learning to most of us is analogous to a ladder , not a rocket.

      I think “beginners” here refers to computer students who are new to arduinos.

  4. Very comprehensive guide in simple language. My advice to beginners is to go for those boards, which are immediately recognized by Arduino software. All the boards discussed above fall in that category. Clones can be used, if you have someone experienced to guide you. Unknowingly, I bought clone(before I watched the video), and it was not a smooth start.

  5. Thanks sir, can you please give me a link or a place where you buy those boards at such a price.
    Because someone is telling me a total different price. Please.

  6. There really is no reason to skip the Leonardo. It is the prefered NOOB board, it’s the UNO without its flaws, its cheaper, you don’t have a chance of buying a non-working clone because of driver issues, it has more PWM, it can be powered off many of those defunct USB micro phone chargers and USB HID is the killer feature missing in the UNO.

    I also miss the DUE in your list. A really great expansion on the Leonardo and much easier to work with than with the ESP boards, which have a really nasty design-flaw that needs pressing a button on loading code (BLOODY ANNOYING!). Also great about the DUE is that there are add-on TFT’s.

    1. There’s all manner of incompatibilities on the ARM-based boards though, which for a noob following a tutorial (based on Uno) just isn’t helpful. The USB HID stuff is admittedly awesome – but also found on the pro micro. This video is a little old now though, so admittedly the current situation might have changed.

    2. Leonardo is not ARM based. It just has a built in USB controller. If you have R3 shields, all works the same.

  7. Thanks for the video! Very educational. I do have a question about your Puerto Rico box behind you. What is that?


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