Simple 3D Printed Enclosure Design – ARDUINO GIVEAWAY!
In that video, you see a lot of custom 3d printed housings, and today what i wanted to do is actually show you with a brief tutorial how i design and 3d print my custom housings. This one here has an arduino uno inside and, if youre interested in winning stay to the end of the video and ill, tell you how you can enter to win Music, okay, so the first step in any enclosure is to model the object. That is to be enclosed. This case its an arduino uno and im going to skip past that since thats, not the focus of the video okay. So once you have your object, youre going to draw a rectangle around it and youre going to decide how big of a gap you want between the object and the walls of the housing. For me, im going to use four millimeters im gon na do four millimeters on all sides, except the end with the power cables which ill do a little extra okay. Now the next step is actually, i used the offset tool and i used a wall thickness of three millimeters and now what im doing is using a fillet to round the corners just so that the housing is good and strong, and there arent any sharp points just Makes it look better and feel better in your hand, for the rounds im using two millimeters? The next step is actually to position the holes for the mounting screws in each corner Music.
The easiest way to do that is to draw two circles. One will be the hole and one will be sort of the post that connects to the wall of the housing. So once you have those you can trim away the extra and then i like to round the inside corner. It just gives strength to the box Music. Now we can go ahead and repeat that step on the other three corners and then were done setting up our mounting holes now. The next thing we want to do is actually create the bottom of the box. So using that sketch we just made were going to select all of the bottom surface and were going to extrude downward im going to do an offset of eight millimeters just so theres a gap under the arduino for routing any wires we need to. Now we have the bottom of our box. The next thing we do is open that same sketch back up and were going to select the profile that will become the walls of the housing im going to go ahead and select the inside of the mounting holes as well and im going to extrude that. To give the box its height, one really easy way to do. That is actually to do another offset that is equal to the height of the enclosure and then, instead of extruding, a certain distance were gon na, go down to an object and just select the bottom of that plane that we created.
That is the bottom of the box, so now you can see our enclosure has. Its walls were leaving a little bit of a gap about five millimeters above the highest point on the arduino uh, just so that theres room for routing wires. If youre going to be using a shield on your arduino youre going to need more space than that, but in this case that will be just fine, so were off to a good start. Weve got walls in our bottom now, im going to circle back and select the holes that we created in that sketch profile, so just select those four circles and im going to do a cut extrusion so that when i go to 3d print, this box theres a Hole there, i can either make this the right size for a screw to thread into directly or big enough for a threaded insert to be pressed in either way. It will be the same process. Okay, so now our mounting holes are ready. Okay, looking pretty good, the next step is to create the mounting points for where we will secure the arduino uno, so i actually just projected the arduino uno profile onto the bottom of the enclosure and im using that to create four posts. Basically, that will hold the pcb in place instead of doing individual posts, its a lot stronger if you actually have those mounting points secured to the wall. So i just draw vertical lines: make those lines tangent to the mounting holes that i want and then trim off the excess.
The arduino uno has four mounting holes, so im going ahead and creating four tabs that will support the arduino uno and they have holes in the center so that we can drive a screw right down into them and hold that arduino securely in place. Once we have, our profiles drawn again, were just going to select those planes and were going to extrude upward a trick to do this easier instead of knowing the proper dimension is actually just to turn the housing off and then extrude to an object and select the Underside of the arduino, but you have to remember then, before you finish this extrusion, you need to turn the arduino off in the viewer and the enclosure on and then set to join so that now those mounting points are Music, one body with the enclosure and have Not joined to the arduino, i also like to round the edges of those mounting tabs just to make them a little bit stronger on the arduino uno. Specifically this top mounting point here. There is an obstruction. One of the header pins is in the way, so my fastener is too big. It doesnt fit there. So what im going to do instead is actually extrude up a pin in place of that hole that would have accepted a screw theres just going to be a pin pointing straight up, thats, going to allow the board to sit down on top of the pin and Help us position our board before we drive in the other fasteners okay, now that thats done and we are happy with how its looking the next step is to start working on the cover.
So the easiest way to do this is sketch on that top rim of the enclosure that you already have were going to draw four new circles. That will be where the screw goes through the housing and down into the base. So, through the cover down into the base, so were going to draw four circles and then were going to select everything except the center of those four circles and were going to extrude upwards. This is going to make a lid that is the exact same shape and size as the base of the enclosure without having to redraw anything so im going to extrude this up, seven millimeters thats, actually based on the height of the screw uh, the head of the Screw so we we want the screw to be flush with the top of the enclosure, so thats, where that came from were going to extrude up seven millimeters and then the center portion of that cover doesnt need to be the full thickness. That would be a waste of material, so you can see were doing a second extrusion for the center portion thats. Only two millimeters thick were going to go ahead and rename our bodies now, so we can keep them straight. We have the arduino itself, the enclosure and the cover now that thats done well leave just the cover on and you can see on the underside. What i mean the center portion is only two millimeters thick thats plenty enough for it to be a rigid and robust cover for our application.
The next thing we want to do is actually two offsets um. One of them will function as sort of a buffer so that the lid can sit down on to the base and theres a little bit of clearance. The next will actually be the lip that goes down past the top rim of the enclosure that will help it to stay centered and secure, while youre driving in your fasteners Music. Once we have that profile drawn were just going to extrude upward the little offset one and then were going to extrude again uh the lip and the lip needs to come up a millimeter or two higher than the bottom of that enclosure cover. And now you can see when we turn sideways thats going to let this cover sit right on top of the enclosure and be naturally centered and held in place by that little lip. The next step is to cut away a little bit of material for our fasteners to sit down into the cover. This will depend on what fastener youre using, but for me i need an eight millimeter circle and that ended up uh, taking up more room than i expected so im going to draw my eight millimeter circle and then im actually going to cut off the whole corner. Im not sure, if theres a term for this, i would call it a dog ear where were just lobbing off the corner, and the fastener will be seated right at the edge of that cover.
So i just drew four lines: two horizontal two vertical and made them tangent to those circles. Now im going to go back and trim off the extra lines we dont need, okay, that makes the little dog eared profile and the next step is just to extrude. Those four corner pieces downward to cut away that extra material and create a perfect little place for the fastener head to sit Music. You can see when we did that and actually created a little opening. I need the lip on the inside of the housing to be bigger, so im, switching that to two millimeters. So there is no opening created by that dog here and there now you can see its closed off again Music, so that just about does it for the cover. The next thing we want to do is just put a little chamfer on all the sharp edges. This is to make it look professional and finished, but also to give it a good feel in your hand, the 3d printer sharp edges dont end up looking that sharp anyway, so its best to just go ahead and put a little chamfer on there gives it a More professional feel we also put a chamfer on the bottom edge of the base of the enclosure that helps with the 3d printer so that it doesnt over extrude at the base and theres a nice crisp bottom. It also makes the base match the cover, so they look like one set.
Okay, the last step – and perhaps the most important, is to put a nice logo on the cover. So you know exactly whats going to be inside this housing. This is really easy to do. In the past, ive brought in a canvas and traced it on, but really the best thing to do is to find a png online, convert that to an svg and that can be inserted directly into your model. And then you can extrude that profile without having to do any tracing or anything. So i brought in my arduino logo. I pressed it into the cover about a millimeter and now im ready to export these as stls once i have. Those all i have to do is bring them into my slicer. I like to use the creality slicer here. First, im going to do the base the housing um almost five hour print, not too bad. I could uh print it faster if i wanted a lower quality and then, when i go to print the cover, youll see that im actually going to flip it over im. Going to print it face down with supports on because i want those dog ear corners to be supported. However, i dont want to have to pick infill out of that logo that we pressed into the cover. So what im going to do is use the support blocker to prevent supports from being generated under the logo, using the support blocker. We can prevent any supports from being generated in the logo and that will make it a lot easier to clean up after it prints.
Now were ready to jump over to 3d printing Music Music. Do Music Music do Music, hey guys, thanks for sticking around to the end of the video, if youre interested in winning the custom 3d printed housing that we just designed together and the arduino uno inside just leave me a comment telling me where youre from and what Youd like to see fla labs do next thanks again for watching.