Ender 3 S1 Pro – High Temp Direct Drive 3D Printer
The ender 3s1 pro used in this video was donated by per gear, for my honest and unbiased opinion, so whats the difference between the s1 and the s1. Pro well, there are several things but theres, three major items, the first, the little things this one has a handle on the bed, so its easy to pull the bed out its nice. This one doesnt have it. This has a light bar to shine light down in your prints. Nothing here. This one has ball bearings in this spool holder, so it spins this ones fixed, and the final thing that this has is a bezel where this is covered in a plastic case with a bigger drawer. So its nicer looking, but the three biggies are number one: the hot end now theyre both direct drive but theres still a ptfe tubing inside this. That goes all the way to the nozzle. So, realistically, that limits you to 230 to 235 degrees c before that ptfe tubing starts to break down, and you dont want that this has an actual metal heat break in there, so the ptfe tubing, that is in there doesnt touch the hot end or doesnt touch The hot zone, its similar to the heat break i put on my ender 3v2 from slice engineering that thing works great. So i definitely like this. That was my biggest complaint about the s1. Is that ptfe touching the nozzle? The second thing they did was they put a pei surface on the metal plate where this has a pc surface on a metal plate ill explain why i like this better further in the video.
The final difference is the lcd display. This one is the same as the v2: its got to turn the knob and click same menu. Everything this one has the creality touch screen. Now the touch works, fine, but the interface its just horrible, its absolutely the worst interface ive used on any 3d printer, its. So confusing to me, maybe its just me, but its so confusing theres one point: it says home on the main screen. You click home, that just takes you back to the main screen. You got ta, go one level deep to get to the button to actually home this thing: theres an x and y home and theres a z home. If you click on the x and y home symbol, it homes, the x and the y. But if you click on the z, home, itll home the x, the y and the z, which is the true home, so theres like three different homes on this thing – and i dont know how many times i pressed home thinking, im, homing, the bed or homing. This thing, and all i did was take it back to the main screen so incredibly confusing so thats, something i hope can be fixed with firmware, but let me explain how to put this thing together and then show you how well it prints. The printer comes mostly assembled and on their sd card, there is a great video that shows you how to put it together.
The lcd is mounted with three screws connect. The wiring then connect the gantry with four screws through the base then mount the hot end. Then mount this spool holder, connect the filament run out and then the rest of the wiring. The connectors are nicely keyed, so you dont get them in the wrong spot and they go on the right way. Theres, a ribbon cable that goes to the hot end makes this much easier to assemble and then once youve got everything assembled make sure its set to 115 volts in the us plug it in turn it on and now were ready to use the auto level in The settings menu you go to the level menu and then auto level and itll do a 16 point level. But mine gave me this error as it turns out that error message means the bed is too much of an angle, auto level cant work, so you need to level your bed before you auto level, your bed. So i got out my filament friday. E leveler ran the g code for this guy, which ran great on this. I leveled each corner. Then i re ran the auto level and it passed once it was leveled. The first print i did was the 3d benchy that they have pre sliced on their sd card. Now i had also received some creality filament ender series – creality filament. I dont know who sent me this, but its a silver.
So i thought what a perfect filament to try out ender filament on an ender three and that first print is awful. Its i dont know what the cause was. Was it the filament? Was it machine? Was it the slicing? So i printed another sample, which is this coin. It says, enter on one side, its got like the bitcoin symbol on the other and theyre pretty pretty nice. So then they have a cat on there and i printed the cat and about two thirds of the way. Through i shut off power purposely shut off power to see if power loss recovery would work it did. I turned it back on. It said you want to continue so it did, but you can see a nice line all the way through this thing where it recovered and the rest of the print came out pretty nice. So then i went back printed, another benchy its awful. So at that point i figured its not the filament, its, not the machine, its probably the slicing of that benchy. So i went to the computer grabbed a 3d benchy file sliced it with my filament friday, extra fast profile in version 5 of cura and a 25 infill. It only took 45 minutes to print this and it came out really nice theres just a little bit of stringing. I did change the retraction from six millimeters down to one millimeter, because this is direct drive, so i did get a little bit of stringing book.
This is so much cleaner than those, so it had to be the slicer. So then, i wanted to test a chep cube at a point. One two layer height, so really fine detail with a smooth top, and this would not stick to that pei bed not consistently. I got a bunch of stringing, i got a bunch of failures. Id come back, just would not stick. I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol, even roughed it up a little bit which helped a little, but i couldnt get a complete chep cube from this machine. I tried different filament same results, so i decided to make a change. I went to the s1, which has a pc finish on a metal plate same magnet, so i just swapped beds and then i could print one no problem. I printed in a red i printed in black no problem at all with this bed material, but that pei totally inconsistent. It definitely would not print a small check, cube larger prints with a bigger footprint, not too bad. This guy right here, which is like a chisel about the size of a check, cube it popped off several times, so this bed material, this pi bed material to me – is a step backwards from what the s1 had. So then i want to try some other filaments. I did print a few more pla prints with my filament friday, red filament, which we no longer sell, but i still have some that i use printed nicely so the machine, the settings my slicing was working good.
So then i tried my tpu profile in version 5.0 of cura and i printed this little spiralized vase. Actually i printed a couple of them. Beautiful came out nice no issues whatsoever. So then i want to print some high temperature stuff and ive. Had this tallman 3d alloy 910, its a nylon based high temperature filament takes like 260 to 270 degrees to print with this, and i printed a chisel and i actually pounded. Actually i printed a couple of them. I pounded that chisel into wood and actually split a piece of wood with it and it didnt break so it handled that beautifully. The high temperature were good. The only issue i had was getting this footprint to stick to that bed. I actually ended up flipping this over and putting glue on it, putting glue stick and then i got this to work so my biggest complaint about this printer is this pei bed, its horrible overall, the s1, the s1 pro are your direct drive, ender threes. If you want a direct drive, these are two of your choices for about 430 dollars and this ones about 500, depending on where you buy, you can get it for a little bit less but per gear. Has it on amazon for 499 dollars its a good machine? I just dont like the pei bed and i dont like the touch screen id, prefer this. So the nice thing is, you can buy just that hot end, thats sprite hot end for about ninety dollars, and then you can upgrade this.
The only issue i have is, i cant find the firmware in order to do this, you know to upgrade the temperature limits in the firmware, so once i get that im actually going to try and install this on an ender 3 pro just a regular inter 3 Pro to see, if i can get it to work, so look for that in the future, so you can upgrade this guy once the firmware is available, cost you a little bit more, but then you get your display! You get your pc bed if youre like that. Like me, if you want the pei, if you want the touch screen, this is actually a better deal, so i dont know your choice. Let me know what your thoughts are in the comments below. If you like, what im doing here, maybe check out some of the other videos that are popping up, if you want to help support the channel, patreon is one way if nothing else, click on that filament friday logo and subscribe ill see you next time right here.