arduino pro mini pinout

 


 
2, 3. 2 RL, the middle one on the red board is the CP 2 102 and at the bottom we have the pl 2 303 HX. So this is the FTDI ft. 2 3 2 RL chip on a little board with a USB mini plug. So I plugged it into my mini lead and I’m going to look at the device manager on this is Windows 8 and it says here: it’s a USB serial port on Comm, 13 and I’ll. Just get the properties on that and it says it’s the drug that the driver is and FTDI now I didn’t appear to need to install this driver. It seemed to install itself but, as I said, that’s on Windows, 8, I’m, not sure about on previous versions. So, on the back of this converter, we’ve got ground. I put brown on there. I put red on VCC orange, on TX, yellow on RX and there’s. A DTR out on this module. Now, DTR or RTS can both be used for the auto reset, so it’s very useful when the module has that and they don’t all have it right. So I’ve hooked up the pro mini, and this came with the bootloader installed and also the blink program, and you can see there that the green LED is running the one second on one second off blink program in terms of the connections, Brown was ground, so ground Goes to ground, of course, VCC goes to VCC, TX and RX.

Go to the counterparts you cross, those over so TX on. One ball goes to Oryx on the other and vice versa, and then the grey wire is labeled on the mini as grunge grn green. But I don’t know whether you can see this. Let me just get my pencil up here on the top right hand, side of the board there’s a tiny capacitor and that’s – probably the 100 nano farad capacitor that creates the reset pulse. So, as I say, on the driver, chip either DTR or RTS can be used to provide a reset pulse and that’s. What provides auto reset. That means you don’t have to hold the button while it’s compiling and then let go when it’s ready to upload. Well, now I’ve modified the blink program to provide two blinks very rapid 50 milliseconds with a hundred milliseconds between them and then a 1000 milliseconds one second gap, so it’s a it’s, a double blink it’s, just dumb. I wanted something to make sure that I could see that it didn’t have the original blink program in there. So under tools and board we come down and select the arduino pro or pro mini 5 volt, 16 megahertz with 80 mega 328 and under tools. Serial port mine happens to be on con 13, so i’ve selected that okay. So now I hit the upload button and we check that it’s compiling the sketch and then I’ve got the verbose stuff on so there’s all the data going through and now on the board there’s, my signature double blink, so the mini has been successfully programmed by the Ft 2 through 2 RL interface board let’s, try the next one right.

This is the board based on the CP 2 102 chip. I don’t have well, it comes with a USB, a plug on it, and I’ve only got a short extension later. I plugged it in up on my PC. There let’s have a look at this. What this chip is so this is the CP 2 and O 2 single chip USB to UART bridge made by Silicon Labs and we’ll just check the documentation so here’s the webpage. The USB to UART bridge and if I go under tools and scroll down, we have here windows drivers. I think it’s, this one CP 2, 1, o x, v, CP Windows, version 6, point 6, point 1 and that installed perfectly well on my windows, 8 machine. So let’s check the device manage so now in the device manager. Its detected that I have a silicon lab CP 1 o x, USB 2 opera, John comm, 12 let’s just get properties on that and the driver is saying Silicon Labs, so that’s, fine, so I’ve hooked up my cables to ground 5 volts TX and rx TX narrator Swapped over, of course, and then my gray cable, which is the reset pin on the pro mini, is connected to rst. But rst is not the rhesus the reset output. Originally, it was a reset input and I’ve had to modify the board, and you can probably see that I’ve put a tiny little piece of wire going to one of the pins on the chip.

But it was extremely difficult to do because those pins are very, very tiny, but these boards, a lot of them don’t, have the facility for reset built into them, which is why I’m now, looking at an alternative, so I’ve now modified the blink program to produce a Triple pulse because I want to make sure it’s different to the previous program, so let’s have a look at their tools, so under board same board. Serial port is now comm 12. So I need to take that and then let’s upload make sure it can pause. The sketch and there goes the data and then looking at the board yep we have the triple pulse on there, so the pro mini has programmed successfully. So now we come to the board with the pl to 303 HX chip, and we have a problem because I’ve plugged that in and although it’s detected it as a prolific usb to serial comp or common Levin. You can see there that there’s, the little yellow, exclamation mark and it’s failed to load the drivers. Let’S just get properties on that and it just says the device cannot start and there is a problem here with the driver so here’s the webpage prolific technology inc and there is a driver there and I did downloading it – does work on Windows XP, but there’s a Lot of stuff here that says in red note, windows, 8 and 8.1 are not supported with the 2 3 or 3 HX a and 2 3 or 3 x EO l chips run the check chip version tool to find out which one you’ve got well.

You can’t run that if there’s no drivers – but I did run it on XP and I’ll – show you what the result was: let’s few scroll down, there’s, more stuff and it’s. All this warning please be warned that counterfeit fake PL to 303 HX chips are on the China market. It says it causes problems. You get the yellow mark error code 10, which is exactly what I’m getting. So it is possible that this is a fake chip on a board. So I’ve now connected the two three, oh three USB to seal driver to my old Windows, XP machine. And if we look at the device manager, you can see that that’s come out. Fine prolific. Usb to serial that’s the wrong Mouse, blip it USB to serial calm, calm, 4. So now this is their check. Chip tools, I’ve checked on comm 4 it’s, a PL, 2, 3 or 3 X, a stroke, HX a and, of course, as they say, there are no windows, 8 drivers for this chip, so on Windows, XP machine, I’ve, selected the correct board. The serial port is con. 4, so that all looks good, let’s go ahead and try and install this is the original blink program. So if this works, it should there’s a much slower machine I’m afraid if it works, you should get the original blink program back in the Arduino. I’Ll come back to this, so that’s worked. We’Ve got the original one second blink program in there, and so that’s worked on Windows XP with the PL to 303 hxhx a check.

So in summary, then, I found it was possible to program the pro mini with all three of these USB to serial interface modules. The FTDI module was probably the simplest because I didn’t need to install drivers but it’s a bit more expensive that one, the CP to 102 module is one of the cheaper ones. Probably the PL to 303 was probably the cheapest, but this CP to 102 module works with Windows 8. You do have to install drivers, but they install fine and then you can program it. And although I had to modify this to do the auto reset, you can now get these to 102 modules with more breakout pins, and so you could use DTR or RTS to do the auto reset. Now the PL to 303 – I couldn’t use on Windows 8 at all, but it did successfully run on Windows XP, but I can’t find anywhere on eBay one of these modules with breakout pins. So this one is not going to be able to program the Arduino clone with auto reset, so in terms of price I’d, probably favor, this one I’ll show you the the new one with the breakout pins, but this come too close. Second, it is a bit more expensive, so here’s the module that I think will replace the one that I’ve got and you can see here that the DTR line is taken on to the row of pins. But also, if you look down here on the breakout pins on the sides, there is RTS as well.

So if you want to use RTS to reset the Arduino, you can do it that way. I’Ve got this one yet I’m waiting for it.

 
 

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2019-10-02T19:32:52+0000

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    1. It is Request To Send, not reset. Look up the RS-232/V.24 specifications for serial communication.
      You might push the reset pin, I believe.

  1. Much time has passed since you made this and a series of other videos around Pro Micro boards and their special requirements for programming, but I have only just bought (well, ordered at least) my first Pro Mini for a miniaturised project, and in my excitement, completely forgot to get USB-Serial programming interface. However, I have subsequently found a number of tutorials saying that you can program the Pro Mini by using the USB controller on an Arduino board (such as an Uno) as the interface… The simpler method is aimed at those Unos that have the ATMega328 chip in a socket, so it can be easily removed, and then the 328 on the Pro Mini appears to the IDE to be the only processor available to program. The other method is aimed at Uno boards (like mine) where the chip is a surface mount non-removable kind… This method requires a few shenanigans to correctly route the instrctions via USB for the first hop and the Tx/Rx Serial for the second hop (at least I think that is what it is doing), but at the end of the day – it does appear that with a little effort you can get around the need for a separate USB interface altogether. It seems that with similar skulduggery, you can even load a bootloader onto the Pro Micro using an existing Arduino. If you are doing a lot of work with multiple Pro Minis, I guess it makes sense to have the dedicated device to help with programming, but if you are creating a single bespoke device, then once built, the dedicated USB-Serial interface is redundant (and I hate wasting money)…
    Have you ever tried either of these methods? If so, would love to see a video about them.
    Keep up the good work – always look forward to notifications of new videos from you.

    1. Excellent, thanks – I just found it. As I suspected – you explained it so much better than any of the other articles I found. I am now looking forward to my Pro Mini arriving with some degree of confidence again, rather than dread that I’d made a bit of a gaff.

  2. Good morning sir, i use your profuct ( STM32F407 Card) ; in fact I modeled a photovoltaic system connected to the electrical grid, then I did what is called hardware iin the loop, I left the power part on simulink and I implemented the control part in the STM32F407 card, the simulation was successful for sample time = 1e-6, but for one second of simulation, it takes a lot of time,so when I lower the sample time even to 1e-5, the simulation diverges.
    I inform you, that additionally to the STM32F Card, I use arduino usb converter card (FT232R USB UART) , I think that this card who slow down my simulation, no ?
    many researchers suggest to me to improve data exchange speed , but at my knowledge , increasing the exchange speed , mean we have to change the FT23RL Card, So what do you think if i replace the usb converter card by CH340G instead of FT232RL ?? or it will be the same.;:;.?

  3. Hi, I need to read UART data using UM232H and NUCLEO-F401RE, but I don’t know how to connect each one to the other! please can you help me!! thank you in advance.

  4. Where can I get one of these for my police light bars the pins on my boards are alot closer together. I don’t know if you have seen them or not but if you could please help me out. I would really appreciate it! If ya look on YouTube you might find a light bar and you can see the 5 holes that are closer and smaller.look at Oliver cruisers and that is the perfect example.my email address is markgill3342@gmail.com.thank you so much!

  5. On the back of the FTDI chip based board, there’s 2 patches marked 3.3 and 5 (see 1:26). In the arduino IDE we see you are using a 5V pro-mini, so it seems there’s no need to solder the 5V patch to the center patch, is it correct? And for the 3.3V pro-mini we’d have to solder the 3.3 patch to the center one, right?

  6. The FTDI ..I bought from Ebay ..I am really not sure the chip on the board as the chip number was removed ..however when I connected to window 10 it was detected and the driver was installed but the yellow triangle came up showing the port not working..so I reboot the computer with the port left plug in on booth the yellow triangle gone and the device work…

  7. nice video even though old. want to say i have a ‘fake’ prolific converter working in windows 10. there is an old driver, and one has to disable driver autoupdate. prolific seems to be a very vindictive company, wanting to intentionally punish people who happen to have gotten counterfeit chips. NO other company i am aware of does anything so despicable.

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