arduino pro mini pinout
2, 3. 2 RL, the middle one on the red board is the CP 2 102 and at the bottom we have the pl 2 303 HX. So this is the FTDI ft. 2 3 2 RL chip on a little board with a USB mini plug. So I plugged it into my mini lead and I’m going to look at the device manager on this is Windows 8 and it says here: it’s a USB serial port on Comm, 13 and I’ll. Just get the properties on that and it says it’s the drug that the driver is and FTDI now I didn’t appear to need to install this driver. It seemed to install itself but, as I said, that’s on Windows, 8, I’m, not sure about on previous versions. So, on the back of this converter, we’ve got ground. I put brown on there. I put red on VCC orange, on TX, yellow on RX and there’s. A DTR out on this module. Now, DTR or RTS can both be used for the auto reset, so it’s very useful when the module has that and they don’t all have it right. So I’ve hooked up the pro mini, and this came with the bootloader installed and also the blink program, and you can see there that the green LED is running the one second on one second off blink program in terms of the connections, Brown was ground, so ground Goes to ground, of course, VCC goes to VCC, TX and RX.
Go to the counterparts you cross, those over so TX on. One ball goes to Oryx on the other and vice versa, and then the grey wire is labeled on the mini as grunge grn green. But I don’t know whether you can see this. Let me just get my pencil up here on the top right hand, side of the board there’s a tiny capacitor and that’s – probably the 100 nano farad capacitor that creates the reset pulse. So, as I say, on the driver, chip either DTR or RTS can be used to provide a reset pulse and that’s. What provides auto reset. That means you don’t have to hold the button while it’s compiling and then let go when it’s ready to upload. Well, now I’ve modified the blink program to provide two blinks very rapid 50 milliseconds with a hundred milliseconds between them and then a 1000 milliseconds one second gap, so it’s a it’s, a double blink it’s, just dumb. I wanted something to make sure that I could see that it didn’t have the original blink program in there. So under tools and board we come down and select the arduino pro or pro mini 5 volt, 16 megahertz with 80 mega 328 and under tools. Serial port mine happens to be on con 13, so i’ve selected that okay. So now I hit the upload button and we check that it’s compiling the sketch and then I’ve got the verbose stuff on so there’s all the data going through and now on the board there’s, my signature double blink, so the mini has been successfully programmed by the Ft 2 through 2 RL interface board let’s, try the next one right.
This is the board based on the CP 2 102 chip. I don’t have well, it comes with a USB, a plug on it, and I’ve only got a short extension later. I plugged it in up on my PC. There let’s have a look at this. What this chip is so this is the CP 2 and O 2 single chip USB to UART bridge made by Silicon Labs and we’ll just check the documentation so here’s the webpage. The USB to UART bridge and if I go under tools and scroll down, we have here windows drivers. I think it’s, this one CP 2, 1, o x, v, CP Windows, version 6, point 6, point 1 and that installed perfectly well on my windows, 8 machine. So let’s check the device manage so now in the device manager. Its detected that I have a silicon lab CP 1 o x, USB 2 opera, John comm, 12 let’s just get properties on that and the driver is saying Silicon Labs, so that’s, fine, so I’ve hooked up my cables to ground 5 volts TX and rx TX narrator Swapped over, of course, and then my gray cable, which is the reset pin on the pro mini, is connected to rst. But rst is not the rhesus the reset output. Originally, it was a reset input and I’ve had to modify the board, and you can probably see that I’ve put a tiny little piece of wire going to one of the pins on the chip.
But it was extremely difficult to do because those pins are very, very tiny, but these boards, a lot of them don’t, have the facility for reset built into them, which is why I’m now, looking at an alternative, so I’ve now modified the blink program to produce a Triple pulse because I want to make sure it’s different to the previous program, so let’s have a look at their tools, so under board same board. Serial port is now comm 12. So I need to take that and then let’s upload make sure it can pause. The sketch and there goes the data and then looking at the board yep we have the triple pulse on there, so the pro mini has programmed successfully. So now we come to the board with the pl to 303 HX chip, and we have a problem because I’ve plugged that in and although it’s detected it as a prolific usb to serial comp or common Levin. You can see there that there’s, the little yellow, exclamation mark and it’s failed to load the drivers. Let’S just get properties on that and it just says the device cannot start and there is a problem here with the driver so here’s the webpage prolific technology inc and there is a driver there and I did downloading it – does work on Windows XP, but there’s a Lot of stuff here that says in red note, windows, 8 and 8.1 are not supported with the 2 3 or 3 HX a and 2 3 or 3 x EO l chips run the check chip version tool to find out which one you’ve got well.
You can’t run that if there’s no drivers – but I did run it on XP and I’ll – show you what the result was: let’s few scroll down, there’s, more stuff and it’s. All this warning please be warned that counterfeit fake PL to 303 HX chips are on the China market. It says it causes problems. You get the yellow mark error code 10, which is exactly what I’m getting. So it is possible that this is a fake chip on a board. So I’ve now connected the two three, oh three USB to seal driver to my old Windows, XP machine. And if we look at the device manager, you can see that that’s come out. Fine prolific. Usb to serial that’s the wrong Mouse, blip it USB to serial calm, calm, 4. So now this is their check. Chip tools, I’ve checked on comm 4 it’s, a PL, 2, 3 or 3 X, a stroke, HX a and, of course, as they say, there are no windows, 8 drivers for this chip, so on Windows, XP machine, I’ve, selected the correct board. The serial port is con. 4, so that all looks good, let’s go ahead and try and install this is the original blink program. So if this works, it should there’s a much slower machine I’m afraid if it works, you should get the original blink program back in the Arduino. I’Ll come back to this, so that’s worked. We’Ve got the original one second blink program in there, and so that’s worked on Windows XP with the PL to 303 hxhx a check.
So in summary, then, I found it was possible to program the pro mini with all three of these USB to serial interface modules. The FTDI module was probably the simplest because I didn’t need to install drivers but it’s a bit more expensive that one, the CP to 102 module is one of the cheaper ones. Probably the PL to 303 was probably the cheapest, but this CP to 102 module works with Windows 8. You do have to install drivers, but they install fine and then you can program it. And although I had to modify this to do the auto reset, you can now get these to 102 modules with more breakout pins, and so you could use DTR or RTS to do the auto reset. Now the PL to 303 – I couldn’t use on Windows 8 at all, but it did successfully run on Windows XP, but I can’t find anywhere on eBay one of these modules with breakout pins. So this one is not going to be able to program the Arduino clone with auto reset, so in terms of price I’d, probably favor, this one I’ll show you the the new one with the breakout pins, but this come too close. Second, it is a bit more expensive, so here’s the module that I think will replace the one that I’ve got and you can see here that the DTR line is taken on to the row of pins. But also, if you look down here on the breakout pins on the sides, there is RTS as well.
So if you want to use RTS to reset the Arduino, you can do it that way. I’Ve got this one yet I’m waiting for it.
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