arduino hdmi

 


 
Here I want to show you how to make a do it yourself, Ambilight system, for your HDTV, if you’re not sure what this is, this thing is pretty cool. Basically, we’re going to put LED is around the back of our television and from there we can control these with a mini computer, which are called Raspberry Pi if you’re not familiar with it, it’s really awesome device. Okay, so let’s get started so first we need a bunch of different materials. Raspberry Pi 2 will work. Just fine 3 is recommended 3. The differences with the 3 it’s the same cost as the two it’s, a newer device as Wi Fi and Bluetooth built in and it has a faster processor. If you can’t get your hands on a 3 though, and you have a 2 available, that’s fine that’ll work. Definitely need an 8 gigabyte or a larger class 10 SD card. The image that I’m providing here from my SD card, was put on an 8 gigabyte card, so anything smaller and it’s not going to fit, but a gigabyte or bigger is fine. You don’t need to have bigger one: okay, you’ll. Do the job let’s see the 2.5 amp USB to micro, USB charger? This is how you power the Raspberry Pi. The PI 3 recommends that you have 2.5 amps because that’s so much power it’s going to send 2 USB ports. Alright. Next we need an Arduino Uno. Those are cheap. You can I’ve provided links to everything, but they generally cost around five dollars.

So that’s no big deal hdmi splitter an hdmi selector extreme night, 8, 2 V converter. Ok, we want to make sure when you buy it, it’s capable of upscaling to 1080p in that a USB grabber. Ok, it’s important for this tutorial I’m, not saying other ones. Won’T work that you find one with a chipset it’s, a foosh foosh it for shine chipset, I think that’s. I say it anyway, it’ll say UTV 007, and I also provided a link to that. Also. We need a 5 to 10 8, a 5 volt 10 amp power supply to power, the LEDs that should be enough of a power supply to probably power 10 meters of these LEDs. For my setup, I think I used like three and a half meters for a 42 inch TV, but it depends on how many LEDs per meter you get. My setup has 30 LEDs per meter, but they have better ones now, where you can get 60 even 140. Leds per meter, which would be really awesome any of those will work. Fine, but just remember the number of LEDs determines how much power it’s going to take in HDMI cables. Obviously, you’re going to need a few of those you’ll need the ws2812 B RGB strip. 5 meters should be most TVs and some wire and a soldering iron and some double sided tape. This is how you secure these to the to the television Bob let’s move on now. Here’S a materials links list well on just a second well through each of these links.

Right now, but anyway, I did provide links here to each of the devices that I bought. That worked great. I found them cheap on Aliexpress, if you’re not familiar with that site, they have a lot of things that are pretty cheap. The only problem is they come from China, so they may take a couple weeks before you get them okay, so anyway they go ahead and look at these links buy these parts or find ones that are the same, maybe cheaper somewhere else, and this is what you’re Going to need to make this system work now, I’ve also provided a few software links. The reason they did this was I’ve been trying to build the system for a while and most of the tutorials I found online are severely out of date. There or they’re not made to work with ollie HDMI devices, they’re made to work off of one device only which most of us have several devices or you don’t watch everything from your computer. If you do watch everything strictly from your computer, then there you don’t need the Raspberry Pi you don’t need the splitter. You don’t need those things there’s a cheaper way to do this, but I’m not going to cover that in this tutorial. Basically, all the information I found out there was either outdated or came from some Russian website or you know things are tough to follow. So I wanted to make this easy for everybody, so this first link I’ve provided here this is actually contains the arduino sketch you’re going to have to load onto the arduino uno.

It also contains the disc image that the Raspberry Pi is going to need and the hypercar file this file is what you’ll use to configure your setup once you’re done, then there’s a link to the arduino ide in case you don’t already have it you’ll need it To load sketches onto the Arduino Uno, the neopixel library for the LED strip that is part of the Arduino IDE I’ll cover how to install that as well, and then the win32diskimager that is to actually burn the image to the SD card that I provided in the Other link, okay, so the first step for all this is to configure the LEDs on the back of the TV. This isn’t that difficult to do – and this is where you’ll need your double sided tape, unless the RGB strip that you bought already has a 3m adhesive on the back. Many of them do mine didn’t, so I just use double sided tape, so you always want to start at the bottom left corner to place that row of LEDs and you’re going to make sure that the error on the strip of the LEDs is going to the Right and then cut you’re going to cut the strip when you get to the corner and make sure you cut it, like. I show in this arrow right down the middle of those solder pads. Okay, now you’re going to place a strip on the right side and be careful to make sure that the arrows are also going in the same direction that we want this to be one continuous strip of LEDs once it goes around the TV.

So now we do the same thing to the top and we are going to arrange them so that it’s going to the other direction and then, lastly, on the left side, we are going to do the same as you can see. This can makes a continuous strip around there, starting at the left bottom corner, so you’re facing the back of the TV and you’re going counterclockwise. Once we turn the TV around to the front, dial LEDs are going to go, clockwise, ok! So now, the next step, once you’ve attached, the mall to the TV need to solder the corners together for the LED strips to make this a continuous strip. Again, this drawing here shows basically how to do it. You have to make sure that you’re not mixing the ground has to go to ground 5 volts to 5 volts and D out goes to D n on the next strip. Don’T mix the pads it won’t work. Okay. Now you want to do this for all three corners that we had to cut, but don’t worry about the last corner. We don’t need to do it for that that’s, actually the end of the LED strip, so once it’s all soldered back together. We now have a continuous strip. I I’m pretty good with a soldering iron myself. I do this for a living. However, they do make and you might be able to find these on la express corner of junctions for these that just snap into place, and so you won’t have to solder.

I didn’t use those I don’t know if I trust them personally, but you can look around and see if you can find those that’ll make it go a little faster if you’re not very comfortable with a soldering iron. Alright, next, you want to wire this LED strip up to a power supply that we bought the 5 volt 10 amp power supply in the case for this you’ll want to make sure that you go from red to V, plus or plus V in this case, and Black goes to V minus, which is your for DC, your and your ground, the third wire sometimes I’m, my son, my RGB strip. It was green, sometimes they’re, blue, but that’s, going to connect to the Arduino later. If you haven’t done so already, you also need to power or wire the power supply to a wire plug to go to the wall, so you can plug it in. I found an old computer PC power cord and just cut the end off and inside I had these colored wires. I looked online. I found out what color wires go to what and most of them are the same, but double check your particular wire for the color codings that you’ll need to go to this power supply. Okay. Next, oh also it’s a good idea to have a ground from the power supply going to the Arduino. This is important you might get flickering on the LED strips random colors.

If you don’t do that, the Arduino is actually supplying the data to the RGB strip and if it doesn’t have the same ground potential as the RGB strip does, then you might get data errors so it’s just a good idea to run that extra ground from here To the Arduino, Arduino has several ground pins just pick any one of them, and it should work fine. Okay. Now we need to count the LEDs we’re going to have to use this information later for the hyperion setup. So if we turn it around count them, we need to know this. So first we want to count the number of vertical LEDs up and down my particular TV. I had 16 on the left side, 16 on the right side. So then you want to count the horizontal LEDs. Mine has 28 yours, you know, like I said. Mine is a 30 meter or 30 LEDs per meter if you’re going with 60 LEDs per meter or if you have a larger TV or smaller TV. Your accounts not going to be the same. So just make sure you count these. You write them down and then you also need to know the total number of LEDs all the way around and basically it’s just going to be two times the vertical sides, two times the horizontal sides. Once you know that write them down we’re going to need this information for both sketch for the Arduino and for the Hyperion app leader, okay.

So at this point, as far as the hardware setup goes, the hardest part is finished. So now we need to move on to the software part and there’s really two parts to this. There are three – I guess the first part is going to be to install our duo IDE on your computer and then load the sketch now once again, here’s the link to the Arduino IDE software you’ll need this to load up the sketch and then transfer it over To our do we know let’s see so basically just take the Arduino and plug it into any of your USB ports and then open the sketch that I provided in the software package link. Okay – and I think I called the sketch Ambilight high period you’re going to change. If you look at the sketch, you can see here. Mine has 88, but this is going to be the total number that’s on the system. You’Re building and also you can see here, this data pin 10 that’s the data pin that’s, where the data is going to come out of your Arduino to go to the RGB strip. So don’t change that number. When you plug your Arduino into your RGB strip, you’re going to be plugging it into data, pin 10 and also you know, look at the baud rate says 500000 don’t change that either, but you’ll need to know that later that’s going to be this, you need to Put that same number into the Hyperion sketch okay now one other thing is to make this sketch compile and load correctly.

We need that install the right library on here for the neopixel master, so let’s see. I thought I provided us. Yes, I do ok, so you’re going to have to install this library to the arduino ide, and you also want to make sure, under the tools menu board, to select up the uno and to select the correct comport that you’re on in that cowboy may change. Depending on, if you unplug it plug it into a different USB port, sometimes it will change your comport just just check it make sure. So I told you the download link before for this neopixel master zip file. I just download and put them onto my desktop so they’re easy to find and then in here you’re going to go to sketch, include library, add zip file find that file hit OK, it’s going to install it automatically and you should be all set next. You want to go to the sketch menu and hit the upload button, which is right here, that’s, going to load the sketch to your Arduino, and now your Arduino is all programmed you’re done. You don’t have to do anything else all right now. Next we’re going to install the pre configured pie image I provided onto the SD card, basically you’re going to have a zip file or a RAR file, and you need to extract the file OSM c pulse setup. All working that was included in the software link that’s the card image.

Now what this is is a copy of OS MC with cody 16.1 Jarvis on it. If you’re not familiar with Cody you’re going to love this software, this is like a Netflix on steroids. Anything you can think of any movie, any show you’ll find it on there and it’ll stream. It live just like a Netflix system would and then I also put a custom build on it called pulse. What it does is that adds a lot of different, add ons into it, make it really nice and smooth and easy to find that content you’re. Looking for whether it’s movie, whether it’s music, whether it’s TV shows it’s all there – and I mean this basically turns your your Raspberry Pi – into a full on multimedia system and you’ll notice – that it has the Aries wizard on it as well. What that is, is it’s a basically a wizard that will let you try. Different custom builds that are already pre configured for you on there. If you’re a sports nut, you can find a custom build for sports if you just like movies, if you like a kid’s build that has nothing but kids shows and stuff you’re going to find it all on there. So, basically, once you’ve got it on there, you can go ahead and mess around with the aries, build and you’re going to love it it’s great and it’s, fully up to date, not like some of the other tutorials, where everything’s two years behind this is.

This is current as of today and I’ve, already loaded all the drivers that you’re going to need it for everything on here which took me days to do using the old out of date, tutorials that I can find. Basically, this is why this set up is going to be much easier for anybody to build everything’s up to date. Everything works, so it’s already got a basic. My version of Hyperion’s on it set up for my TV, but I’ll be showing you later in this tutorial. How to make a few changes to get it all set up for yours, it’ll be very easy. Once you’ve burned it to the or once you unzip it, then you got ta, put your SD card into PC and we’re, going to double click on the wind disk. 32 image, your program that you downloaded already that’s, going to be where you install it and basically all you need to do – is run it as administrator, select the image file and select the SD card in your computer and then write and once it’s done running to The SD card you’re all set just put the card in your Raspberry Pi and that part of its done ok. Moving on now we get the fun part we’re, going to hook it all up. Okay, so it looks kind of like a lot but it’s not too bad and in the end it’s a little messy, but you can easily take this and put it into a nice custom.

Fixture of your own any kind of box and it’ll work nicely and it’ll. Look nice, but you got to make sure whatever you put this in has some kind of ventilation. I put it all into a box and it was running fine, but it would reboot. Occasionally I found out some of these devices make a lot of heat and it was actually rebuilding the pie. Occasionally, once I put some ventilation in which was just a few slots in the box, so air could flow everything’s working, perfect. Okay, so first thing is: you know your power supplies plug in the RGB strip, now plug the data line into pin 10 of the Arduino. If your wire doesn’t have a plug that can fit into the plug it’s, okay to just solder, to pin 10 underneath there too, we know that works, fine, to effects water and may even be a better idea, because it gives you a better connection and then plug The Arduino, via USB cable into the pie and that’s it Arduino, is powered by the PI’s USB. So we don’t need to do anything else. There okay now select a plug, an HDMI cable from one of the outputs of the DV HDMI splitter into your TV and then plug the output of the HDMI selector into the input of the HDMI splitter. Now, on your splitter plug the second output of that into the HDMI to AV converter, and also at this time you can plug all your HDMI devices into your herbs into your selector.

Now on the HDMI to AV converter, we don’t really need the we don’t need. The audio at all we’re only going to process the video, so you can see on the output side of the HDMI kV. The yellow output is your video line and we need to connect that to the L input on the Video Grabber on the USB grabber. So just plug in that don’t worry about the audio cables we’re not going to use them. Okay. Now the USB grabber needs to get plugged into one of the USB ports on the PI. One thing I found is that the grabber needs a little bit more power than most of the other USB devices. So on the PI, you have two stacks of USB ports, plug the USB grabber into one of the two stacks that’s not being used by anything else. So that it’s, the only device on that stack, that’s going to give it enough power to run properly and it won’t be splitting the power into more than one device. So right now you should have the USB grabber in one stack in the uno plugged into the other stack and, if you’re going to plug in a USB keyboard or USB mouse or USB remote, I would plug it into the same stack that the uno is on And leave the grabber on one by itself: okay, so everything’s hooked up now we’re going to power it up and configure Wi Fi in the OS MC so power it up turn it on on the TV.

You should see your OS MC come up, and this is this way when you get into cody you’re, going to be nice to have a keyboard or mouse, because you really need to control it somehow. So once your cody is fully booted up, navigate to programs and select it okay, now look for the selection called my OS MC under your programs, that’s going to open up your OS MC setup menu, and this is where you’re going to go to configure your devices. But mainly right now we need to configure your network settings so at the very bottom you’ve got the network icon select that now select your wireless on the left and if you plan to use Wi Fi. Otherwise, if you’re just going to use a network cable, you don’t need to worry about Wi Fi, the pi2 doesn’t have Wi Fi, so you should see a list on the right screen of all your wireless networks so select the network. You want to join. Put your network password in and connect I found. Sometimes it takes a couple times to get a successful connection, sometimes I’ve. It says it’s unsuccessful, but you reboot everything comes up. Fine just go back in get in and go back to your settings because now you want to write down the IP address that you’re going to get once you’re connected and you’re going to need this later with a Hyperion, the hyper kind well to connect to it.

And upload your new hyper con configuration file. Okay, so that’s! Really it now. Your Kodi setup should all be done and you can begin streaming all kinds of video content through Kodi. You can select a different HDMI input, whether it’s a cable box, an Xbox, a Roku. You name it Amazon, fire, stick you’re going to you’re going to love this setup, but the so as far as the hardware goes we’re done. The last thing to do is modify the hyper con file for your particular setup, so we’re going to configure Hyperion so run the hyper con file that I included with the download folder. This is it for the big zip file. Once you run it you’re going to see it it’s going to look just like this file here: double click it and open it up. Okay, so now we’re just going to modify a few settings to make nigut you know for your setup, so basically in the hardware tab of the hyper con you want to make it look like this. It’S got to be an analyte 4 type, 4 type. Your output is going to be the dev ttyl USB. Oh now, we’re going to change your baud rate to 500000. Remember that’s what was in the Arduino sketch, so this needs to match it. Otherwise, it’s not going to work correctly, ok and now over here for clockwise. Now these settings here these have to match what’s on your TV. So remember I told you to write down your horizontal and vertical LED numbers you’re going to change these values here so that they match ok and then once you do that, if you look at the GUI this first LED offset for me, it was 44 just modify It until 0 ends up down in the bottom right corner of your TV you’ll be able to see it change as you modify it.

Ok and some some I didn’t in my setup, but if you have an LED in the corner of your setup, you can select these checkboxes. Okay leave the rest of the settings. For now you don’t need to mess with them. You can change those later. If you want to change the depth on these two settings or the overlap, you can, I usually wait til later after everything’s working and then just play around with those okay, yeah and now click Save here. So so you’re going to save all these files to adapt file. I usually save it to my desktop. You can save it wherever you want. Okay, now on the process, tab pretty much there’s no need to change anything in this tab, yet you could adjust later. If you want to for me, I got it all. Working first then went back and changed my saturation in my game and my gamma a little bit just to just to fine tune. It it’s going to be different for every setup, so the default settings are usually going to be just fine. So again click Save every time I make changes. I save it, so I I can go back and mess around with it later. Okay, now we’re going to go to the grabber tab; okay, so pretty much just make it look the same as it does in this picture. Here, okay, I unchecked the internal frame grabber and check the grabber here, make sure that device is the same and all these settings are the same.

Then click Save again. Okay, now the external tab, you pretty much just make it look the same as it is in this picture again and click Save. Now, though, this is a good place to also create your configuration, so the very bottom button here create hyper con configuration create that save it to a location of your choice. I usually will save it to my desktop and it’s an easy place to find it. Okay, now the last tab. This is the SSH tab. This is where we’re going to upload the configuration to your Raspberry Pi. So for this to work, your computer needs to be on the same network as the Raspberry Pi, so basically for target IP. Your IP address that we recorded before from your OS MC settings on the PI so write that down from before just put it in here, leave the port at 22 and for username and password we’re, going to use osm, see and also osm, see once you’ve done. With that save it now click connect. You should be connected to your Raspberry Pi so from here we’re going to click the send config button that’s this button here, that’s grayed out in this picture, and I click that and that’s going to that’s going to update the Raspberry Pi with your configuration, not the One I already had loaded on it, so all these changes are going to get uploaded and we’re going to click, Save so now, we’re going to create the configuration one more time because that’s going to save these other changes that you just made and later when you Go back into it to fine tune it.

You won’t, have to go through all this again, they’re already in it. Alright. So once it’s, once the Raspberry Pi has a new configuration on it, reboot the Raspberry Pi and it should work it takes about 20 seconds before your LED strips, will light up and start working that’s because as a delay in the arduino code, that’s there on purpose To let the Raspberry Pi finish booting up into um, Oh SMC, before it starts transmitting the data to your LEDs, so that’s normal okay. So at this point, everything’s done, if you don’t everything right here, new system should be working and nothing left to do. But some fine tuning so I’ve also added a couple extra thoughts here so, like I said before, if you get some occasional flickering double check that your connections, familiy d strip to the arduino – are not loose because that can make that can result in some random flickers Of color, if you do want to box it all up and make it look nice, which I did remember, that these components, especially the PI, will get pretty warm so give it some ventilation. If you don’t you’re, going to get some random rebooting and then go to the Hyperion wiki, if you want to do any color calibration or fine tuning and that’s about it, so it’s going to be a little different for every setup, but actually the default settings. The basic settings work pretty well, so you won’t really need to do much fine tuning here.

Ok, this should do it at this point. Everything should be working perfect and if you have any problems, just go over and double check everything. Oh also, another thing that can give you some random flickering is, if you have something and plugged into the same circuit, that’s very noisy, like a vacuum, clear things like that, because that other than that should work pretty well. So just give you some questions in youtube.

 
 

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official.arduino
2019-09-12T13:55:21+0000

A modular, Arduino Mega-controlled delta robot for your desktop.
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official.arduino
2019-09-12T12:41:57+0000

This interactive floor recalls the precariousness of standing on an icy surface, enhanced with imagery, sounds and physical dynamics.
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linuxdevices
Fri Jan 02 17:08:27 +0000 2009


The LattePanda Alpha 800s uses Intel’s 3.4GHz Core M3-8100y SoC and offers Arduino-compatible expansion along with an Arduino-compatible MCU. The SBC includes 8GB RAM, eMMC, microSD, and m.2 expansion, and I/O for HDMI, USB, GbE, WiFi, Bluetooth, and more. https://t.co/CHFLAlfAkh

https://t.co/CHFLAlfAkh
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HackerBoards
Thu Jul 02 12:20:03 +0000 2009


The LattePanda Alpha 800s uses Intel’s 3.4GHz Core M3-8100y SoC and offers Arduino-compatible expansion with an Arduino-compatible MCU. The SBC includes 8GB RAM; eMMC, microSD, and m.2 expansion. I/O includes HDMI, USB, GbE, WiFi, Bluetooth, and more. https://t.co/e23RwXxnLm

https://t.co/e23RwXxnLm



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  1. It worked!! After many hours of tinkering, it’s all up and running! A few setbacks with confusion over which buttons actually save and send the config in hyperion, but all in all a great project! Now I’m going to 3D print a custom housing which I’ll share on thingiverse! Thanks so much for the tutorial, the was perfect.

    1. ozzman39 it’s almost finished, just need some fine tuning. And you’ll need to get specific cable lengths but I’ll put it all on the site with the files

  2. Hello, anyone knows if using this build Will I be able to use ambilight with an Android box / mi box for Netflix or YouTube? Also i Wonder if works with a steam Link mirroring my steam games on tv.

  3. Has anyone got an updated tutorial of this using WS2812B strips as this one is now dead in the water

  4. Hi guys maybe some of you can help me. I have 202 Leds in my 55″ tv. Thr arduino is communicating with hyperion. The orange snake effect takes place and the then when the Hyperion takes over is seems that the leds are not lighting correctly. First they are not bright at all. And they only light on the top of the tv and when the colors of the tv are very bright. When i send a color from the hypercon file they all light correctly and very brightly. Is the problem in configuration file? I tried changing many things but nothing seemed to fix the problem. I have a 5v 20a power supply and in theory the 202 leds need 12A but when i send a color from the hypercon.jar they light up pretty bright so i dont think that is the issue. I hope someone can help ke i am so close!!!! @themadscientist maybe you have an idea what could be wrong. I know the tutorial is old but i uopr somebody will answer

  5. So this only works if we have external entertainment system for the tv. That’s a disappointment for smart tvs that have built in youtube, netflix etc.

  6. Hi, Maybe this is dumb question but, a year later, I got a new TV, so I want to set this up on the brand new TV before I put it in place.  I finally opened the LED’s I got from aliexpress…  It comes with 5 wires coming out.  Red, Green and White into a harness, then a red an white…  If you check the link above to the LEDs it shows the same thing.  Anyone know what is what ?  I am looking for +, ground and data.  Can I assume in the harness, the Red is +, Ground is White and Data is green as suggest… What about the 2 other lose white cables ? Any problems with the devices listed coming from a 4K source ?

    1. And what do I do about the stand for the TV ? It’s a 2019 65″ 4K, and the stand is on the back of the TV, so going across would go up about 10″ on the TV if I was going to go about 1-2″ in from the edge. Should I clip on one side of the stand and do a jumper over the stand base ?

    2. You are probably right about the color codes but you should be able to trace the wires to where they connect to the PCB and check the see if it is marked. The extra white and red are usually do you can wire to an external power supply.

    3. Thanks ! I’ll have to cut up the end to see where they go to… Just was trying to avoid that..  I plan on putting the LEDs on the back of the TV and doing the rest of the setup in like a week or 2… As I have the TV on the floor, it’s good time to get behind it… I wish there was sold way to check with out cutting things up, or adding power that could cause damage if wired up wrong…

  7. quick question from a networking idiot. I want to try this but why does the rasberry pi need to be connected to wifi. Is this because the Hyperion software will only be installed on a desktop and the rasberry pi will use the software running on the desktop. (sorry if that doesn’t make sense like i said not that great with this stuff.) if that is the case will i need to keep this computer on at all times to run the ambilight?

  8. “ANY” HDMI device? Kodi, etc are fine, but this won’t support the vast majority of consumer HDMI devices….

    …I was hoping you’d implemented a work-around for the HDCP problem. (Decryption keys for HDCP are freely available; implementing one yourself would be the interesting part. Until then, perhaps one could use one of the Chinese converter-type devices, or certain HDMI splitters don’t pass it through, if you can order the right one.)

  9. I’ve followed this guide to the letter and can’t get it to work. When I plug the device in my LEDs power up the correct color specified in the Arduino sketch, but beyond that I can’t get them to do anything. If I connect via SSH and try to set the LED color with the SSH color picker all I get back is a “cannot connect to host” response.

  10. Maybe a stupid question, but how do you safely connect the power cord to the power 5v power supply? (You talk about it at 09:53)

  11. You should make an osmc with all the drivers without all the extra add ons on it. Just osmc and the drivers. Plz

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