arduino game

 


 
When all is said and done, the finished project should be capable of emulating Ness Ness Game Boy, Color, Game Boy, Advance and other retro game consoles. I did mention that I’m. Following a specific guide. I found online Game Boy. No, this is not a sponsored, build or anything, but I chose this build guide because the console was thin in size. It had a cool black PCB it, which makes soldering very easy by the way and it has excellent documentation. All in all, this project is pretty great speaking of great. This video is sponsored by expressvpn, the fastest and safest way to keep your data protective when you’re browsing and streaming video online check out expressvpn today by using the link in the video description. Ok, so all the parts have arrived and I’m ready to put them together. Now, when you order your Game Boy, Noll kit you’ll get pretty much everything you need, except for her you’ll need to get some soldering gear, captain tape which protects against heat and electrical shorts. The Raspberry Pi zero W computer itself and a corresponding micro SD card, which will store the roms and the OS itself and then oh you’ll need a lithium ion battery. When all is said and done, the project costs about 70 US dollars and I’ve linked everything that you’ll need for the build in the video description below so check that out speaking of soldering. Well, let me start off by saying that I don’t solder – I mean I’ve, done it once or twice before, on some big cables but I’m a total beginner.

So if I can do it well, then you can do it too. All of the soldering supplies I’m using were recommended by the great Lewis rossmann, including the hakko 951 soldering station, though don’t worry about the price on this bad boy, a much cheaper, soldering iron can do the trick like a twenty dollar. One you’ll need some very thin diameter. I chose point zero, one, five inches leaded solder. I chose the brand Kester and you’ll need some magical, Amtech flux. This stuff is incredible and it makes the project significantly easier and you’ll see why, in a bit, just trust me buy the flux and if you have like rosin and flux, throw that away. You want this flux because it is the bong hoof. Okay, now we our gear and it’s time to get to work now we’re going to need to mask off the back of the Raspberry Pi with some captain tape. This will prevent any shorts in the future. Make sure, however, that you don’t cover the top pinholes up because that’s, where we’re going to be soldering when you’re done taping, it should pretty much look like this. Okay, that was the easy part now it’s time to heat up your soldering iron to the solder melting temperature, which is about 350 degrees Celsius, mouths 662 Fahrenheit. Now, if you have a cheaper soldering iron, that isn’t adjustable that’s, fine just make sure that it’s rated to get hot enough to actually melt.

The solder I’d recommend taping your Raspberry Pi down to the back of the board, just to make sure that it doesn’t wiggle around while you’re attempting to solder stuff in place then start soldering, the PI to the board pads. You basically just stick the solder down inside each of the little holes, and then you let the iron fill the cavity up with melted solder. If you want to be sure that it works, you can actually push the tip of the soldering iron down inside the hole to make sure that the solder creates a good connection, it’s, really pretty easy. Now the documentation shows you which, pins to solder. Theoretically, you don’t need to solder all of them, but when I got my multimeter out, I noticed that a couple of pins didn’t seem to be in the right place, at least according to the diagram. If you don’t have a multimeter or you just want to avoid the headache down the road you can just actually solder every single pin, you want to do any harm. In fact, there’s a lot of upsides like the board is more stable. Really, the only downside is that it takes a couple more minutes once you’ve got the Raspberry Pi soldered down it’s time to move on to the buttons of which there are many let’s start with the Eleanor shoulder buttons, as well as the shutdown button. All you have to do is push them through the back of the board and then solder them on the other side.

Oh – and this really goes without saying, but don’t breathe, lead bro make sure you are in a well ventilated room and you’ve got a fan turned on blowing the air away from while the board once you’ve got the shoulder buttons down. We’Ve got to move on to one of the trickier things to solder, which is this tiny, three r9t resistor, which goes below the select button. Now I decided to take one side down with cap. You can use any tape you want and I soldered it one side at a time. Sorry for my big, dumb head getting in the way. This method, however, worked pretty well for me, however, if you are struggling and getting the solder to stick, I know it’s a very, very small spot. This is where your friend flux can come. In now, flux has several purposes but it’s amalgam, ative properties, attract solder like crazy to the intended joint, apply, flux, liberally and then tap your soldering iron with some solder on it right against the joint, and you will create a perfect connection almost by magic soldering. The d pad and ABXY buttons was actually pretty easy too. I felt quite a bit better at it after just a few minutes again, if you’re having trouble getting good solder joints, which believe me at first, I did just use flux. I applied it to the hole ABXY array and the flux did its magic. I mean just look at that.

Here. Are my joints with flux compared to my joints without flux, it’s kind of no comparison, speaking of flux, it’s going to be our friend in the next step, which, as far as I’m concerned, is basically impossible without it, the display connector is a ribbon cable and those Are apparently very hard to solder, but not with flux? All you have to do is line the cable up with the pads on the board, and then you just tape it down in place. Now you do need to make sure that it is lined up about perfectly, but once you’ve done that you’re ready to solder. Are you not convinced that flux is awesome yet well? Watch this cover the cable in a generous amount of flux like quite a lot and then apply solder directly to the tip of the soldering iron. Once you’ve done that drag the soldering iron across the display, connector that’s, covered in flux, the flux will magically suck that solder directly on to the solder joints, creating the perfect connection with no bridging, no cold joints, just wonderful, I freaking love flux, okay, so we’re getting Close, all we need to do is fast on the power controller, and we do that by using a bit of single core wire and then soldering that in place, and then we trim the excess wire off and once that’s done. There are just four easy solder joints at the top of the controller that we do exactly like.

We did with our Raspberry Pi that’s, not too hard at all nice. In fact, there’s really only one step left and that’s the battery cut the connector off. Hmm sad because we’re actually going to be soldering it directly to the board solder, the black to the connector and then, after that solder, the red to the connector, obviously don’t, let the two wires touch or that could be well just don’t. Let him touch! I found that taping, the cable in place when I was soldering made things way. Easier. Flex is also your friend in this situation, once it’s soldered cover it up with captain tape, and we are done well, the soldering at least now it’s time to test it. If you haven’t created your SD card, yet you can do that very easily by downloading the Game. Boy, no iso from the build page which is pre configured and ready to go. So all you have to do is use one of the many free ISO to disc creators like enter for Mac OS to create a bootable SD card. Once your SD card is created, we’re actually going to need to set up the Wi Fi credentials because that’s, how we’re going to transfer games to and from the device enter the root of the SD card and then there’s a file called Wi Fi key file, dot. Txt open that using a text editor and then change the SSID string inside of the quotes to the name of your Wi Fi network and then, where it says, PSK in the middle of the quotes, change it to your Wi Fi password.

Then all you have to do is save the document eject the SD card from your computer, put it back into the Raspberry Pi 0 and turn the switch on to see if it boots, if it didn’t boot up or some of the buttons don’t work, that’s. Ok, the great thing about soldering is that it’s not permanent, so just undo the soldering that you did on the buttons and try again. In my opinion, the best way to remove solder at least board I’ve tried is using solder wick, which is very cheap. Just put a little flux on the end of your wick, put the wick on top of the solder joint and then place the soldering iron on top of the wick and you’ll notice that the wick magically sucks up all of the solder, making it very easy to Remove your buttons reposition them and then try again. The likely mine ended up working awesomely on the first try and when I turned on the power switch well, it turned on instantly well raspberry PI’s don’t boot on instantly, but you get the idea it worked. I didn’t screw it up. We’Re almost done. All we have to do is throw all of the stuff into the 3d printed and closure. By the way I decided to scrap the idea of colored buttons from the last video, and I just printed them all in black. I think it looks more premium unless well DIY ie. All you got to do is put the buttons inside the bottom half of the case.

Then you have to push the battery into place and then you kind of just drop the board in and sometimes the buttons slide around and it takes a second but you’ll get it as for the front, I think it’s easiest to put all of the buttons in The enclosure first and then you can drop the lower half into the front and man that looks awesome. All we have left is to close it up with for 3 or 4 m3 twelve millimeter screws it screws right together and hot dog. I mean I’m, admittedly biased, because I’ve made it and it’s my first soldering project, but I think it looks incredible. The rear plastic is translucent, so you can see the battery pack pretty easily and you can even see the pie in the right light. You can definitely see the green LED all the buttons look and feel super premium and the form factor, I think, is superb it’s thinner than my index finger, so it’s not very thick and it’s, both shorter and narrower than the iPhone 10. The chassis is also flexible enough to not break when you bend it, but it’s rigid enough to feel like an absolute unit but like how well does it play games. Man shockingly well, I’ve played Ness Game Boy, Color and Game Boy Advance games without any issues. Even snez games run really nicely, the buttons are quick, they are clicky and they are responsive and, I will admit, there’s – not much travel in the buttons.

I wish they were a little, you know spring or squishier, but they do feel good. Nonetheless, the only thing that I’m, not in love with well, I guess there are two things number one there isn’t any onboard audio now you can add this to the PI relatively easily, but you need to print a larger enclosure which I didn’t want to. Do the whole point was to make this small and it does increase the the price of the build ever so slightly. I decided that no audio was better for a you know, smaller form factor and then number two. This is my bigger annoyance. The TFT display isn’t. Quite up to par don’t get me wrong, it’s, certainly usable and the colors actually learnt pretty nice. Furthermore, it’s non reflective, which is handy, however, it’s not very bright, which makes playing it on the go, a tad trickier and viewing angles: aren’t excellent, either. It’S fine it’s. Just not up to par with the rest of the build, I think, if you’re seeking a state of nostalgia or if you’re playing these games for the first time ever, you will love Gameboy nolan. I think it’s well worth the 70 and it’s a blast of a project. Do you know what else you’ll love today’s sponsor expressvpn? If you know what a VPN is just get expressvpn trust me it’s, the best one I’ve tried them all VPNs help protect you online. Without being tracked, never use public Wi, Fi hotspots, the internet abroad, etc without using expressvpn.

There are lightning fast servers located all around the world for keeping your email, your browsing data and high res streaming, both private and geo, located in the country of your choice. That’S really great for streaming video expressvpn as a bargain, because snazzy lapse viewers get an extra three months free with their 12 month plan, that’s less than seven dollars per month, using the link below help, support snazzy labs and helps you get the fastest VPN around expressvpn. Well, folks, that’s all for me. If you enjoyed this video, please give it a like if you didn’t well, then that other button seems to work okay too, but most importantly, get subscribe for more awesome.

 
 

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official.arduino
2019-10-02T19:32:52+0000

👋 Want to bring Tony Stark-like gesture control to your projects? Learn how with the BLE-enabled MKR WiFi 1010 and Nano 33 BLE Sense boards using the ArduinoBLE library.
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official.arduino
2019-10-02T19:08:01+0000

Arduin-yo ho ho! A fairground favorite, the pirate ship is a fun way to explore the oscillation of a pendulum. How much fun, you ask? Access our Science Kit Physics Lab preview and see for yourself: http://bit.ly/2oC6L0Q

🔬 Now that you’ve gotten your feet wet, dive into the kit and enjoy all nine experiments. Order yours today: http://bit.ly/2MnQ7fr

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sybreon
Tue Feb 24 07:15:55 +0000 2009


RT @AloyseTech: 3 years ago, I was about to launch my own game console. I designed it based on the @arduino Zero (@MicrochipTech SAMD21). I…

carvalho normal - arduino game
danielscarvalho
Wed Mar 18 03:00:06 +0000 2009


RT @AloyseTech: 3 years ago, I was about to launch my own game console. I designed it based on the @arduino Zero (@MicrochipTech SAMD21). I…

Adafruit PyGamer for MakeCode Arcade, CircuitPython or Arduino

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Adafruit PyGamer for MakeCode Arcade, CircuitPython or Arduino

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Originally posted 2015-10-25 22:29:24.

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Comment (26)

  1. I’ve been looking at your videos there awesome ….. now I have a question for you ( need help for this protect) . How to mod a fake gab from china by the name gab station .it dose not have a micro sd card slot . How can it be added ( for more games ) or how to add games with out the sd card or how to add a retro pie zero w ( the unit is smaller then the regular gab

  2. I would add a small amount of epoxy resin to the corners of the pi board, I wouldn’t be relying on solder joints with no pins for mechanical security.

    1. Bluetooth on the pi zero w is really slow it does lag the gaming. Best thing to do with the zero w is use a USB wireless dongle like the one from 8bitdo

  3. I was looking at Rossmann’s recommended tools list the other day, and I really wish I had some cash lying around. I probably need to look for budget versions for a hobbyist instead.

  4. I was looking at Rossmann’s recommended tools list the other day, and I really wish I had some cash lying around. I probably need to look for budget versions for a hobbyist instead.

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