This is the first series of videos that I’m going to make describing the Cerberus pup 170 and how to set up different parts of the hardware and the firmware make it easier for people who are building these as kits to put them together without a lot of Frustration and guesswork or having to do a lot of research on the internet, because all of this information is really available on the internet, but it’s just located in so many different locations, it’s difficult, sometimes to get it all put together. So here we go. This is a Cerberus pup. You can see it’s actually a fairly small penis it’s, a hundred and seventy millimeter round bed and in the bottom of that is an as Teague x1 by panic at devices it’s a sanguis, no clone, which is a type of arduino control board and I’ve got one Right here, which I’m going to show to you, it’s, actually very small, very compact and a very nice unit. So today, what I’m going to show you first is a little bit of information about this board and then i’m going to show you where you can go online to get the USB drivers for this, for windows or for mac for OSX, as well as how to Set it up for 16, stepping or 30 seconds stepping on the drivers and which pins you can use for fans depending on whether you are running a heated bed or a non heated bed in this printer there’s, a non heated bed it’s, just the glass and it Prints in pla only, but if you had a heated bed, you’d be able to print an abs and nylon and some other materials.
But then you would lose one of your fan output. So your fan control is not going to be as precise. So in a non heated bed, because you can use the heated bed pins for the face and for one of the fans you can control to fans independently, which means you can have a part, cooling fan and you can have a hot end barrel fan which keeps The hot end cool enough to run PLA without getting it jammed up in the nozzle, which is always a good thing. If you want to have success, successful prints, okay, let’s get started with with looking at some of the software over here. Okay, so first place you have to go: is here reprap, org wiki as Teague underscore x1 and there’s a section called software there, where you can see what you need. You need to sanguis, no patch for windows or for OSX. You need the version. 0023 version of the arduino ide don’t install the latest version of the software, go into the older versions and download that 0023 version it’s very important, because that sanguis no patch does not work with any versions newer than 0023. Now there are some sanguis, no patches out there for other sanguine on boards that you might be able to install, but for the sake of this particular system, we are just going to go with the old sock or it doesn’t make any difference to how you upload Firmware to have the newest version, this will work just fine okay, so you may also find out when you plug in your your ass tx1, that you need the USB driver, and i am actually going to show this to you, because when you click on the USB Drivers, it comes to this page here, ftdi chips and you scroll down, and you basically choose your operating system over here.
Look at this right here and it’s got all these these drivers here, we’ll. What you really want to do is underneath the comments section over here. You want to pick the executable that’s, really the easiest way to do it for at least four windows. You know 8.1 or just standard windows all the way through version 7. Okay, so you just click on that download the executor, we’ll install it and that’ll give you the USB drivers, which really make your life a lot more. A lot of blood simpler. Basically, okay, let’s let’s also take a look here at the Aztec x1, so panic at devices I’m going to show this to you here as well: panic at calm as teak underscore x1 reprap underscore 3d printer, etc. So if you go to panic at calm, you’ll also find information about your board. Okay, so that that’s, a good source of information, ok, let’s, go on and once you’ve downloaded arduino 0023 and you should have a copy of the firmware as well. In this case i’m using marlin, so you need to have the marlin files in a folder called marlin, ok or alternately. You need to have the marlin files in a folder the corresponds to the name of the marlin pde file. Now, if you happen to get a version of Marlin, that does not have a PDE file there’s, also a Marlin Ino file right there it’s exactly the same file. The only thing that’s different is the filename ending, which is PDE vs.
I know if you try to open an Ino with mark with Arduino 0023. It won’t know what to do so. What you do is you make a copy of it and you rename it Marlon PDE and presto. Bingo you’ve got it open inside of Marlin over here. Ok, so Marlon let’s take a quick look at Marlon. The files that are most important to us are the configuration H file, the configuration advanced file and let’s just go here. You can see that there’s a whole bunch of files that just keep on going across this way and you never quite get to see unless you have an incredibly wide monitor. You’Ll, never see this, but down here on this list. You click on that little window. You’Ll find down here at the bottom, pins, psh, that’s that’s a critical file because you’re basically telling – and this this is related to the fans and the heater. So you have to know this stuff you have to you, can click on pins and then it opens up the pins pins file. Now this pins file is very complicated, there’s a whole bunch of settings in here for basically every board known to man. So how do you find the pins that you need well inside of the configuration h file configuration not H, you’re going to scroll down and you’ll see that there’s actually a motherboard definition here, motherboard 65, just right there, motherboard 65 motherboard 65 is specifically the Assateague x1.
You can see there’s a long list of motherboards here, so you you want to make sure that your motherboard is set to 65. Then we’ll go back over to pins and down depends, and if you’re, at the top of this file you could you could scroll. You can scroll all your way down and find a motherboard equals 65 or you can do. Excuse me, you can do find and when fine comes up, all you have to do is search for equal, equal space 65 and then do a find and boom it’ll pop. You right down to their to 65, so there you go now now we’re at motherboard equals 65, and you can see that it’s defining s Teague x1 and there’s. A couple of changes here that are made specifically for the fact that we use bed leveling and I think the most recent versions of this are coming out with the bed leveling pin set correctly. But if not just take a quick look here. So you’re going to cut, you can comment out, define X, stop, pin that’s too little. Slash is right. There will comment. It comment out the fine, why stop, pin and the Z stop pin, so those are pins. 18. 19. 20. They get commented out at the top, then fan. Pin. If you have a heated bed, then the fan pin needs to be set to four. If you do not have a heated bed, then the fan pin needs to be set to 12.
Okay, 12 is the output for the heated bed. Obviously, if you don’t have a heated bed you’re using it for a fan, you can set it to be. The fan, pin and the the soft world will turn turning off that particular fan with that pin setting okay, if you set it to 12, you have to come on down. You can see here actually defined as Teague x1 is set to 12 you’re just going to scroll on down a little further here. You can see that there’s a definition for the heater bed pin and it used to be 12 right there and now it’s set to minus 1, which disables disables the heater bed pin, but we’ve enabled the heater bed pin as the fan pin further up right here. Okay, now, in order to enable the Z probing, we had to change the definition of the max and min pins, and you can see this little block right here. I’M just going to highlight it, and you can pause on that and just take a look at that. You can see that I’ve got x, max is 18 y, max is 19, zmax is 20 and now there’s a new one called z, min pin, which is pin 27 and that’s the end. Stop that we use for the bed leveling probe, okay, configuration advanced. So why are we in configuration advanced? Will you can actually set a the original fan pin on this board? It actually has see that okay down here at the bottom, where my finger is pointing right there.
There is a set of two pins side by side with a plus and negative that’s. The fan pin and that’s actually pin number four okay in our situation. What we’re going to use the fan? Pin output for is, pin number four we’re going to use that as a fan that comes on and off when the heater I’m. Sorry, when the hot end gets above a certain temperature and it’s going to turn a little fan on that blows, air across the hot end barrel to keep it cool, okay and so the original fan pin, which is the one that you can control for. Your for cooling, your printed part, is the heated bed over here, that’s pins 12 right there. Remember! If you have a heated bed, that’s the heated bed, you can’t use it for a fan, and this is the only fan that you’ve got over here, which is pin number four, but in our case we’re using pins 12 for a fan and pins. For for a fan, this fan here is controlled from inside the configuration underscore ad v, okay and that’s over here I’m sure you’ll have to go over this a couple of times: I’m I’m, not the best at explaining stuff. So this one, you can see extruder cooling fans, you can configure the fan, pin to automatically turn on and off when the associated extruder temperature is above or below the extruder fan. Extruder auto fan temperature. Okay, so here you can see, I’ve said I’ve set them to four.
We actually only have one extruder on this, but you know I just you know you could. Actually this could be minus one. It won’t make any difference. Okay, but I just said them to four it doesn’t matter, and I have the fan come on after the temperature has passed 120 degrees centigrade. I get the fan running at 253 out of a possible 255 and that’s, basically pulse width modulated and so the lower. The number the slower your fan will turn up to a point where, if you have it running too slow, it will be so slow. It won’t even be able to start, and so there’s, actually something the fan. Kick start tie right up here, and this is in milliseconds. So, in my case, I just give it full power for a second and then I could basically turn this down to bring since 80. If I wanted it to run really slow or i could leave it at, you know 253, which is what i’m doing right now. Alright, so that’s pretty much how you set up your fan pins now, remember, if you only have fan pin for these should be set to minus 10 k minus one minus one. Everything in here gets turned off. The fan pin is set to four in the pins. H file and you do not have a fan to cool the barrel of your hot end. Now you can hook a fan up and just have it running off of 12 volts.
So when you turn your printer on, you can get a little fan to just run. All the time blowing across the barrel, but you will not be able to control it based on temperature and that’s, because the fan we want to have running is the fan that cools the part, because, when you’re, printing really really small detailed, you want to have a Fan that you can count on to cool your plastic it’s really important to get in order to get good quality. Okay, so let’s go on to configuration H. This is where you’re going to find the settings specifically set up for the Cerberus pup. Okay, so remember: motherboard equals 65 that’s critical. You have to set that you can give the printer a little name like this is a Cerberus pup for my friend bill I’m, going to give him the printer he’s, my machinist great guy, and another thing you need to see up here at the top. Is the baud rate I set it to two hundred fifty thousand okay, this this controller works great at a bod rate of 250000. I don’t have to set it down to a 115200 okay motherboard 65, and here we go. You might want to just pause on the screen and take a look I’m just going to tell you. These things are Delta segments per second okay default Delta, diagonal rod. Ok, this is the length of the push rods. Are the control arms, the effector rods, the ones with the steel balls on the end in in this case, mine are 218 millimeters.
The Delta smooth rod offset is the distance from the center of the printer to the center of the of the rollers on the vertical carriages the Delta effector offset is the distance from the center of the hot end or the center of the platform. I should say outward to where the ball joints are located and the delta carriage offset is the distance from the center of the rollers on the carriages to the center of the balls at the carriages. Ok, so all of that stuff gets calculated right here to give you your default delta radius. Now delta radius is something that we’re going to deal with. Actually, all of these let’s see laxey i’ll. Tell you what we’re going to work later on we’re, going to deal with diagonal rod and we’re going to deal with delta radius. Okay and those are going to be adjusted during the calibration phase of your printer, so that you’ve get so that you don’t get a Boeing or cupping of your print across the platform and so that you get the X into y dimensions. Correct as you as it relates to you know, if you prayed up, if you want 100 millimeters from one side to the other you’re going to get exactly 100 millimeters, so it basically adjusts the XY sighs okay I’m, going to keep on going here. Of for this particular printer now i’m using i’m using a firmware up from up for Marlon Marlon firmware that was written by rich, see, rich cattell and i’ll probably put a link to that particular firmware in the description for this video.
I don’t want this to get too long here. Any case you can see here you want to set these settings just like they are for a server as pop okay, that diameter 140 auto level grid of 25 and then the Z probe, deploy start location is going to be 10 and then deployed. End location will be 10 everything else zeros, except for the zero offset, which is 0 point 6. Okay, temp sensor is the type 1 we’re just going to keep on going down here to get to the good stuff. Well, let’s see here: ok, so you power on your printer. You burn the firmware and you hit home and the darn thing heads down towards the bed. Instead of away from the bed up towards the end, stops, then what you’ve got? It is your wires on the stepper motors are are different than what I’ve got or different than you know what is set up in the firmware so here’s, where you can change the direction of the stepper motors, so invert X direction, true or false. Ok! So if it’s going down – and you and it’s set to true – and you want it to go up – just change this to say false and it will flip it around and go the other direction. The same applies for the Z, the y and also for the extruder. If you, if you start to extrude filament and it you know, it’s, actually pulling extruder exfoliative filament out of your nozzle away, then just flip that around from a from a false to a true, ok, but for a pup.
These these just be set up. This direction, k home der, is set to one. That, basically, is a is the max it pulls the home direction away from the from the print bed. Ok, the other thing you want to set right now is this manual z, home pause, that’s, the position. Basically, this is the height of your print. This is going to vary slightly from printer to printer and it really depends on you. Have those n stop screws screw it in around, but for now, we’re just doing rough rough set up we’re going to do a full calibration of this printer from repeat of your host and all of these settings that I’ve just showed you for the most part, can Be adjusted within the eeprom settings, ok, so moving on, I have my printers controller set to 30 seconds, stepping and that’s what we’re seeing right here. Steps per unit is set to 160. Now I use a 22 full E and I use 30 second stepping and that ends up being steps per unit of 160. Ok, i’m going to show this to you real, quick underneath underneath the stepper drivers. Now these are the stepper drivers. Here there are some jumpers and I’ve got I’ve got one set up here for 30 seconds stepping, and I got one set up here for 16 – stepping ok, you want to have them set to 30. Second, stepping I just find it, it runs a lot quieter that way and there you go, you can see it’s jumper, open jumper and there are three jumper spots underneath each one of these.
So one two three four of them and you have to have the jumper set up ms one jumper, ms to open, ms3 jumpered. Ok, i actually ms3 is over here and if you wanted to run 16 stepping you can just do ms3 jumpered right there that’s right, yeah, m3, m3 ms3, something like that anyways! You can see right there. The other thing that I do break the board trying to get it so you can see it here is there’s another little jumper right right over there that basically switches from internal power to USB power. So I like to have my board not be on when I have it plugged in to the USB cable, so I switch that to the int side, not to the USB side. You can see I’m. Sorry, the last very good here you can see website it’s set to right there, okay, okay, so onward we’ve got to burn ourselves. Some firmware and I’ve made some changes here. Let’S just say, and if you look at the top of the screen, there’s a whole series of these little buttons across the top one is safe and when is upload, those are the two that I use all the time. So if you see a little a little weird squiggly shape, that’s got some symbol means something I don’t know what it is, but you see that there, then that means that you’ve made a change. You need to save it again so I’m, just going to hit the Save button and you’ll see that it goes away.
So we’ve made changes to configuration that H. We made a change to pins H if you’ve got fans or hot bed and now it’s time to do the upload. Well, first thing you have to do is you’ve got to go to board and you’ve got to pick as Teague x1 with atmega 1284 it’s, 16 megahertz. Okay and when you come down here, you can see now that it’s got a little little checkbox next to it, and the next thing you have to do is you’ve got to come to serial port. This is this is done after you’ve installed those those drivers from the the wiki page and followed all the instructions over there on how to get that. Sanguis no patch into Arduino 023 it’s all described over there so I’m, not going to show you how to do that, but basically your sister, your computer, pretty much always has a common one. Don’T pick that one pick whatever other one you’ve got. It may not become 11, it could be three four five and at that point, as long as you are not connected using the repeater, your host software right here, I’m going to disconnect the repeat your host. If the repeater your host or your host control software is, has taken control of the comm port. By being connected to the printer, you will not be able to upload using the Arduino firmware. Okay, so at this point, I’m going to hit upload and you’ll see done at the bottom there’s a status.
It says uploading to io board and actually it’s, probably one of the things they changed in later versions. It should say compiling here: okay and then you might hear something happening over here on your on your board and let’s. Just take a quick look here and see if we can see the little lights going and you can’t, you can see the lights going. There are over at the front of the board right there next to the USB connector, so on this one there’s your USB connector and there’s little to lights, TX, Rx and those are going going right now, so you can see them flickering down there. Ok, so it’s uploading making whatever changes we made and those are going to the system right now. That is how you burn the firmware. Ok, we’ll just wait here it should. It should be finishing up in just a moment and I’ll show you what that shows there. It says done uploading, ok, it’s done all right. You can come back over here. You can hit connect and I’m going to hit the home button over here. Everything is working properly in that respect and that’s all for this particular video.
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Originally posted 2015-10-10 10:30:23.